Le Prieure’

At just the right time of year, the scent of wisteria greets you as you make your way through the garden of Le Prieure’ in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon.   While the village of Avignon is fun for a while, staying in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon is really the better home base for the region and you just can’t beat Le Prieure’. 

In 1322 Cardinal Arnaud de Via, nephew of Pope Jean XXII,  built himself a palatial residence in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon - right across the river from the Pope's palace in Avignon.  Just before his death, he gave his residence to Chanoine monks to create a priory and it served this purpose until just after the French Revolution.  In 1943, the building was bought and converted into a hotel. 

While the rooms are spacious…the bathrooms are enormous!  Unusually large for Europe.  The rooms are each uniquely decorated by the owner and showcases her unique style and collections.  I had a nice deluxe room with 2 French balconies that opened up on the garden.  This was our first night in France and it was the perfect welcome to Provence…the room, the garden, the sunshine, the wisteria…just could not have asked for a more perfect welcome to the countryside. 

Villeneuve-lès-Avignon is just across the Rhone River from Avignon - the epicenter of Provence.  It is a quiet village that is very accessible and a much better choice than Avignon if you are driving yourself….but be sure you have a GPS!  Avignon is super congested and very difficult to manage with a car.

Alexandre, the GM of the hotel, knows everyone in town and has a good relationship with several restaurants.  We walked to a square, had an aperitif then onward to our dinner at le Bistrot du Moulin.  The setting was charming, the food perfect, the service attentive and the dessert….divine!  At the end of our trip as we reflected, I asked Keith what his favorite memory in France was….‘that dessert at le Bistrot du Moulin’.  Of all the things in France, one single dessert stood out.  I guess I need to find the recipe!

Each night with turndown, the hotel puts information on your pillow regarding things you could do the following day including which towns are having their markets.  Market day is a fun way to experience authentic Provence.  We went to Gorde for our first day...wow oh wow.  The drive was short…30 minutes or so…and gorgeous.  Gorde forms the top of a hill and the buildings cascade down the sides creating a breathtaking approach.  I bought olives, sausages, wine, bread and some fruit then we sat on the wall of the city and enjoyed a nice picnic. 

For day 2, a drive to Chatteauneuf de Pape for wine, wine and more wine.  Overwhelming if you don’t have a plan, so it is best to get Alexandre (again) to help you sort out a plan or private vineyard visits.  My favorite part of this day was meeting Christine Esteolle whose father gave her 5 hectares of vineyards to produce her own wine.  She is in her 3^rd year of production and seems to be doing really well.  There are over 300 wines in the area, so again…best to have a plan.

The drive through Provence in Spring....pictured left.

Pont du Gard is another great day trip from Le Prieure’...or an add on to another market day.  http://www.pontdugard.fr/en  Pond du Gard is a World Heritage site and you could spend a whole day or just a few hours exploring the area around the Roman aqueduct.  A private guide of course makes the visit more interesting.  You can also take a picnic, go swimming, hike, etc. 

When staying at Le Prieure’, it is best to allow 3-4 days to take in all that is close.  Longer would be good, but the 3-4 days should do you well.